What Cavaliers need the most is LOVE
and that is what they give back ten-fold. Originally they were the lap dogs of royalty, which is why they are called "comfort spaniels". They want to be with their family and they are lonely without them. This is not a breed you can leave outside all day or leave indoors in a crate all day while you are at work.
If you do not want a dog who follows you all around the house and wants to sit in your lap when you watch TV or read, than this breed is not for you.

Food/Shelter

Cavaliers only eat a small amount of food so it makes feeding them a high quality food affordable. Any dog food off the Top 10 Natural Dog Food List is generally a safe choice but due to dog food recalls, and wondering where ingredients are sourced from I cook homemade for my dogs with a diet developed by a veterinarian. Click here to see what I feed my dogs. Cavaliers are not cold weather dogs, they must be kept from cold drafty environments. They prefer the warmth of your lap or a soft cuddly dog bed when you aren't there. When we have to leave our dogs they are in the house with  a dog door into a safe fenced enclosure so they can relieve themselves and get fresh air.

Grooming/Bathing

Grooming a Cavalier is so much easier than our previous breed, the Samoyed, who took 2-3 hours to dry with a high powered professional dog dryer. Ears are the trickiest part of the Cavalier as they tend to get in their food and water and in each others' mouths when they play. To make it much easier, the use of a snood at meal time prevents ears from getting messy. A good weekly grooming session is very important which includes toes nail and teeth. I recommend bathing them once a month. I find the cavalier easy to bathe. I start bathing them when they are 8 weeks old and continue to bath them every month and I have no trouble with shedding. I use our laundry room sink which is at a nice height and perfect size with a removable shower head on a hose to wet them down in a matter of minutes. For puppies I use a gentle tear-free childrens' shampoo and message it in followed by a thorough rinse. I let them shake before removing them from the tub. Then I wrap them up in towel and towel dry them followed by drying them with a hair dryer on low. For adults I used Vellus products, but there are many good ones out there.When they get their adult coat I switch over to a commerical dryer.

Exercise/Fencing

This breed does not need a lot of exercise, unlike many breeds who turn destructive without it. However, they love to go on walks with their humans and since it's good for us, it's a good way to bond with your dog and get your exercise too! Mine also love to play with toys in the house, where they enjoy having a toy thrown across the house and bringing
it back to you.



Our dogs exploring in the backyard garden

Our backyard is all fenced in


Having a section of your yard fenced is ideal, especially when you are house-breaking a puppy, where it is crucial to get your puppy out often to avoid accidents. Timing is critical. When you see a puppy starting to sniff the floor, it is time to jump into action. When you can just open your door into a fenced yard and call them out instead of looking for a leash and trying to get them hooked up fast, your chances of success are greatly enhanced.  I do NOT recommend Invisible type fencing systems. Other animals can come into your yard and injure or kill your dog. People can easily steal them. Plus Cavaliers love to chase squirrels and, in the excitement of the chase, can easily cross the barrier into the road and get hit.

Socializing/Training

Socializing your puppy is easy, fun and vital to your puppy becoming a confident, outgoing well-rounded canine citizen. It is important, however, to stay away from public parks until your puppy has received its complete set of puppy vaccines. I recommend a puppy kindergarten class which is a way of socializing puppies with other puppies and people in a very safe, friendly environment where all puppies have to show proof of vaccines to be there. After puppy kindergarten, a beginner's obedience class is also beneficial. This is where your dog will learn the basics like walking on lead, sitting, standing, lying down, and coming to you when called. There are many good affordable classes though your local community centers.

Veterinary Care

I follow W. Jean Dodds, DVM vaccine protocol that follows:

The following vaccine protocol is offered for those dogs where minimal vaccinations are advisable or desirable. The schedule is one I recommend and should not be interpreted to mean that other protocols recommended by a veterinarian would be less satisfactory. It’s a matter of professional judgment and choice.

9 – 10 weeks of age
Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV  e.g. Merck Nobivac (Intervet Progard) Puppy DPV
14 – 15 weeks of age
Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV
18 weeks of age
Parvovirus only, MLV Note: New research states that last puppy parvovirus vaccine should be at 18 weeks old.
20 weeks or older, if allowable by law
Rabies – give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccines Mercury-free (thimerosol-free, TF)
1 year old
Distemper + Parvovirus, MLV
This is an optional booster or titer. If the client intends not to booster after this optional booster or intends to retest titers in another three years, this optional booster at puberty is wise.
1 year old
Rabies – give 3-4 weeks apart from other vaccines 3-year product if allowable by law; mercury-free (TF)

Perform vaccine antibody titers for distemper and parvovirus every three years thereafter, or more often, if desired. Vaccinate for rabies virus according to the law, except where circumstances indicate that a written waiver needs to be obtained from the primary care veterinarian. In that case, a rabies antibody titer can also be performed to accompany the waiver request.